March
22,2000. The American Cheese
Society and Oldways Preservation
& Exchange Trust have joined
to assemble an international
coalition that will fight to
preserve the rights of
individuals to choose cheeses
made from unpasteurized milks.
ACS
and Oldways announced that the
name of this new coalition is
the "International
Coalition to Preserve the Right
to Choose Your Cheese,"
which will be abbreviated to the
"Cheese of Choice
Coalition" (or "CCC").
In
letters sent to individuals,
groups, associations,
organizations and cheese-lovers
all over the world, ACS and
Oldways invited them:
"To
join with us in this Cheese
of Choice Coalition,
because only an international
non-governmental organization
(NGO) possesses the power to
stand up to the international
governmental organizations
that want to prohibit
production and sale of cheeses
made from unpasteurized milks.
We need a countervailing force
to stop this creeping
globalization from taking away
our choice about what kinds of
cheeses we want to eat."
The
CCC endorses these three
principles:
1. Support safe
hygiene in cheese-making through
procedures such as HACCP, which
are established and monitored by
national governments.
2.Encourage all
efforts to promote artisanal,
farmstead, traditional and other
locally-made cheeses crafted by
skilled cheesemakers.
3.Oppose all
efforts to require mandatory
pasteurization of milks used in
cheese-making. Cheeses have been
made from fresh unpasteurized
milks for all of recorded human
history, and there are no
scientific reasons or health
needs to compel the sacrifice of
these cheeses on the altars of
mass production and world wide
standardization.
Adoption of these three
principles assures that
individuals will not lose their
freedom to choose among cheese
made with pasteurized milks or
unpasteurized milks, and that
both artisanal and industrial
cheese producers can freely
market their products so long as
they adhere to procedures such
as HACCP.
iGourmet.com
has joined fine cheese shops and
cheese lovers across the country
in supporting the Cheese of
Choice Coalition. To learn more
about the Coalition and to
pledge your support as a
consumer, please email, write or
fax:
American
Cheese Society
Box
303, Delevan, WI 53115
USA.
Cheese
enthusiasts are alarmed by
government threats to eliminate
raw milk cheeses.
The
Food and Drug Administration is
currently reviewing its policy
that allows the use of
unpasteurized milk to make
cheese, in order to determine if
the policy is adequate to
protect public health. Mandatory
pasteurization may be ordered as
early as next year, when the FDA
studies are completed. Small
artisanal dairies that make raw
milk cheeses in the U.S may have
to close up shop or face
considerable changes in the
quality of their cheeses.Imports
of raw milk cheeses from Europe
may also be banned: Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano,
French Roquefort, Swiss
Gruyère, English
farmhouse Cheddar and
countless other cheeses may no
longer be available on the
American market.
Pasteurization is an easy way to
increase the chances of
producing a safe product, but to
imply that it guarantees safety
is to dumb down the message for
the public. According to
Professor Paul Kindstedt from
the Department of Nutrition and
Food Science at the University
of Vermont, pasteurization "simply
reduces risk. A good argument
can be made that safeguards
other than pasteurization can be
developed to achieve a
comparable level of risk
reduction. This approach has
been taken by some European
countries where there is a
concerted effort to strike a
workable balance between the
public's right to the highest
level of food safety and a deep
cultural appreciation of raw
milk cheeses."
As
we know, most European countries
are fiercely protective of their
culinary patrimony and have a
Protected Designation of Origin
(DOP) for many of their cheeses,
many of which have always been
made with raw milk. The European
Union has adapted an American
sanitation procedure called
HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical
Control Points) that stands as
an alternative to
pasteurization. We support this
"two-track" approach.
Cheese
has been made with raw milk for
3000 years. It sustained our
ancestors and shaped our Western
diet.
We
believe that raw milk cheeses
should not be made extinct
because:
A. American consumers want the
choice. Clearly, they demand
and are entitled to safe
products. Informed correctly,
we, the American public,
should be able to eat what we
want, because the freedom of
choice is ingrained in the
very fabric of our beings.
B. There is a growing market
in the U.S. for raw milk
cheeses.In recent years, the
increased sophistication of
the American consumer has
called for a larger variety of
unique, distinctive,
hand-crafted cheeses. This has
prompted specialty food stores
and farmer's markets
throughout the country to
expand their cheese offerings.
C. Raw milk cheeses belong in
the high end of the specialty
market, thus providing a high
return to the farmer and
making it viable to sustain
agriculture on a small farm.
In
forming the Cheese of Choice
Coalition, the American Cheese
Society and Oldways
Preservations and Exchange Trust
aim to unite organizations and
individuals that will share
information and resources and
concentrate the power to stand
up to the international
governmental organizations that
want to prohibit the production
of raw milk cheeses.
CURRENT
US LAW REGARDING
PASTEURIZATION AND
CHEESEMAKING
Milk for cheesemaking
must be pasteurized OR
the cheese must be held
at 35° Fahrenheit for a
minimum of 60 days
before it can be sold.
This applies to domestic
and imported cheeses.
THE COALITION
SUPPORTS THIS LAW
HISTORY OF PASTEURIZATION
In the mid 1800s, the French
scientist Louis Pasteur studied
the spoilage of wine and beer
and developed a heat treatment
that preserved these fluids
without greatly altering their
flavor. Research on using
pasteurization in the
cheesemaking process began in
1907 at the Wisconsin
Agricultural Experiment Station.
It was a joint effort between
the USDA and the University of
Winconsin, and although the
primary goal was to improve
quality, product safety was a
concern.
During
the Second World War, many
cheesemakers were sent overseas
to fight. Those who took their
place were less experienced and
had to meet the demands of the
government to produce huge
amounts of cheese to fuel the
war effort.Quality and Safety
were compromised. By 1949
pasteurization was applied to
milk and dairy products across
the country. A law was passed
that required pasteurization in
cheesemaking, unless the cheese
was to age for 60 days under
specified conditions.
UNITED
STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
USDA oversees agricultural
production, safety, and
development domestically and
globally of agricultural
markets.
FOOD
SAFETY AND INSPECTION SERVICE
FSIS is the public health agency
in the US Department of
Agriculture responsible for
ensuring that the nation's
commercial supply of meat,
poultry and egg products is
safe, wholesome, and correctly
labeled and packaged, as
required by the Federal
Inspection acts.
FOOD
AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION
FDA is part of Department of
Health and Human Services. The
Food and Drug Administration is
responsible for seeing that the
food we eat is safe and
wholesome. Food and drugs for
farm animals come under FDA
scrutiny. FDA also ensures that
all products are properly and
truthfully labeled.
PASTEURIZED
MILK
US Code of Federal Regulation
specifies milk must be heated
for 145° for 30 minutes or 161°
for 15 seconds.
THERMALIZATION
As defined by the International
Dairy Federation: A system of
heat treatment carried out under
continuous flowing conditions
consisting of heating to 145-150°
for 15-20 seconds and then
cooling with the result that
bacteria are destroyed but
enzymes are unaffected.
INCIDENCE
OF FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS IN USA
Between
1948-1988, the US produced
over 100 billion pounds of
cheese. There were 6
foodborne illness outbreaks
reported during that time.
The
highest cause of cheese
borne illness outbreaks was
post pasteurization or post
production contamination.
These
outbreaks indicated that
soft surface ripened cheeses
were more susceptible than
harder cheeses such as
pecorino, reggiano,
provolone, etc.
Dairy
products in general and
cheese in particular have a
remarkably good safety
record.
EFFECTS
OF PASTEURIZATION ON CHEESE MILK
Lower
flavor levels result from
pasteurization, due to the
elimination of 90% of all
micro flora in the milk.
Pasteurization
retards the ripening of
cheese.
Cheesemakers
could accept poor quality
milk, knowing that the raw
product would be
pasteurized, thereby leading
to production of poor
quality cheese.
Pasteurization
results in increased
consistency in the
cheesemaking process and
more uniform quality in the
end product. This translates
to a lowering of the flavor
bar, eliminating the
potential to produce a depth
and complexity of flavor
that can exist with
unpasteurized milk.
The
qualities listed below are lost
or significantly diminished in
the pasteurization process.
Milk
before pasteurization is
rich in colloidal minerals
and enzymes, which are
necessary for the absorption
and utilization of sugars
and fats in the milk.
These
enzymes aid in the
utilization of fats and
sugars.
When
the milk is heated, it
becomes precipitated with
minerals that cannot be
absorbed contributing to
osteoporosis, sugars that
cannot be digested and fats
that are toxic.
Unpasteurized
milk has a cortisone-like
factor in the cream, which
is heat sensitive. This aids
in combating allergies.
Unpasteurized
milk has the enzyme
phosphataze that allows the
body to absorb the calcium
from the milk. This allows
for the digestion of
lactose.
Unpasteurized
milk has beneficial bacteria
and lactic acids, which
implant in the intestines
and contribute to a balanced
immune system.
Raw
milk has been used in
effectively treating
diabetes in the days before
insulin.
Raw
milk has also been utilized
in treating eczema and
arthritis.
The
source:
Thomas
Cowan MD
Michigan State Medical
School
Noone Falls Health Care
Peterborough, NH
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