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Super Healthy Milk
By Jo Robinson
In my on-going research
into the health benefits of grassfed products, I have been particularly
impressed by the differences between the milk of grassfed and grainfed cows.
Approximately 85 to 95 percent of the cows in American dairies are raised in
confinement and fed a grain-based diet. New research shows that a cow raised on
her natural diet of pasture has five times more of a cancer-fighting fat called
“conjugated linoleic acid” or CLA than milk from confinement dairies. CLA
research is still in its infancy, but a host of new studies suggest that CLA may
be the most potent cancer fighter in our diet. The human population studies are
especially intriguing. Recently, French researchers compared CLA levels in the
breast tissues of 360 women. The women with the most CLA in their tissues (and
thus the most CLA in their diets) had a 74 percent lower risk of breast cancer
than the women with the least CLA. If an American woman were to switch from
grainfed to grassfed dairy products, she would have levels of CLA similar to
this lowest risk group. Unlike other cancer prevention strategies, switching to
grassfed dairy products requires no self-denial and no change in eating or
cooking habits. In my opinion, the fact that our American milk supply is so
deficient in CLA is a national tragedy.
With all the excitement being
generated by CLA, however, other benefits of grassfed dairy products can be
overlooked. Milk from grassfed cows also has an ideal ratio of essential fatty
acids or EFAs. Bear with me for a moment, because although this science is
rather complicated, it is very important for human health. There are two types
of fat that are essential for your health and cannot be made in your
body---omega-6 fatty acids and omega-3 fatty acids. A growing body of research
suggests that a diet with roughly equal amounts of these two fats is ideal.
Such a diet is linked with a lower risk of cancer, cardiovascular disease,
autoimmune disorders, allergies, diabetes, obesity, dementia, and various other
mental disorders.[1]
Whether a cow is on an all-grass
diet or a typical grain-based dairy diet greatly influences the fatty acid
balance of her milk. The reason is simple: grass has far more omega-3s and
fewer omega-6s than grain. If you take away some of the grass and replace it
with grain, you greatly alter the EFA ratio of the milk.
Take a few moments to study the
chart below showing the omega-3 and omega-6 content of milk from cows fed
varying amounts of pasture.[2]
The green bars represent omega-3 fatty acids and the yellow bars represent
omega-6 fatty acids. As you can see, when a cow gets all her nutrients from
pasture (represented by the two bars on the far left) her milk has an equal
ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids, the ratio that is believed to be ideal
for human health. Take away one third of the pasture and replace it with grain
or other supplements (represented by the two bars in the middle) and the omega-3
fatty acid content of the milk goes down while the omega-6 fatty acid content
goes up. Continue with this process and replace two-thirds of the pasture with
a grain-based diet (illustrated by the two bars on the far right) and the milk
will have a top-heavy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. The milk that
you buy in the supermarket has this unbalanced ratio of EFAs because it comes
from cows given liberal amounts of grain.

Unfortunately, buying organic milk
will not alter this picture because most of the large organic dairies also use a
grain-based dairy ration. Milk from a cow fed large amounts of organically
certified grain will have the same fatty acid imbalance as milk from a cow fed a
similar amount of ordinary grain. For an ideal ratio of EFAs, cows need to be
raised on fresh pasture.
Milk from
grass-based dairies offers you yet more nutritional benefits. (I'm beginning to
sound like a TV infomercial: “But wait! Don’t buy yet! There’s more!”) In
addition to giving you five times more CLA and an ideal balance of EFAs,
grassfed milk is also higher in beta-carotene, vitamin A, and vitamin E. This
vitamin bonus comes, in part, from the fact that fresh pasture has more of these
nutrients than grain or hay. (When grass is dried and turned into hay, it loses
a significant amount of its vitamin content.) But there’s another factor
involved as well. A cow produces considerably less milk on a grass diet than
she will on a grain-based diet. (Which, of course, is why the vast majority of
our dairy cows are supplemented with grain.) A cow that yields only modest
amounts of milk may be a problem for the producer, but she’s a blessing for the
consumer. Why? Because, as a general rule, the less milk a cow produces, the
more concentrated the vitamin content of that milk.[3]
A cow has a set amount of vitamins to transfer to her milk, and if she’s bred,
fed, and injected to be a Super Producer, her milk contains relatively fewer
vitamins per glass. In other words, her milk is a watered down version of the
real thing. A purely grassfed cow will yield a lower volume of milk, but every
glassful of that milk will be enriched with extra vitamins.
When you add up all the
nutritional benefits of the milk from grassfed cows you can
understand why I am such an advocate of grass-based dairying. In addition to
lecturing and writing about grassfed products, I have also taken steps to ensure
that my family and friends have access to the real thing. Most of the cheese my
family eats is either imported from Ireland or New Zealand (countries where most
dairy cows are still raised on pasture) or produced by American grass-based
dairies. (Many of these US producers are listed on
http://eatwild.com)
Regrettably, I have been unable to
locate an American supplier of butter from pastured cows, so have had to rely on
Kerrygold butter imported from Ireland. (The Irish butter costs twice as much as
ordinary butter, but slightly less than Horizon or Organic Valley organic
butter.) Recently, I was interviewed on National Public Radio about grass-based
farming and happened to mention the Kerrygold butter. As soon as the interview
was over, the radio station received numerous calls from listeners wanting to
know where they could get some of this Irish butter. (Go to
www.kerrygold.ie) I regret that I wasn’t
able to refer them to an American supplier. As soon as there is a “www.grassfedbutterUSA.com,”
I’ll let the world know.
Oh, I forgot to mention the most important thing. Grassfed dairy
products taste delicious and the butter and cheese have a deeper yellow color
than ordinary products. (The yellow comes from the added amount of beta
carotene.) Slice some homestead cheese from a grass-based dairy or place a cube
of Kerrygold butter on the table and everyone will notice the difference. Also,
all your cookies and cakes will have that rich buttery color that hasn't been
seen since Grandma's day. (You do bake, don't you?)
Jo Robinson is a New York Times
bestselling author. To learn more about the health benefits of grassfed
products and to purchase her books, Why Grassfed Is Best! or The Omega
Diet, go to eatwild.com or call 206-463-4156 during West Coast business
hours.
[1]For more information about essential fatty acid balance, visit the following site: http://www.flax.com/newlibrary/ESSENT.html which contains summaries of a large number of published studies about omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. Or refer to The Omega Diet, a book I co-authored with internationally acclaimed fatty acid expert, Dr. Artemis Simopoulos. The Omega Diet has 24 pages of pertinent scientific references.
[2]The data
comes from: Dhiman, T. R., G. R. Anand, et al. (1999). “Conjugated linoleic
acid content of milk from cows fed different diets.” J Dairy Sci
82(10): 2146-56.
[3]Jensen, S.
K., A. K. Johannsen, et al. (1999). “Quantitative secretion and maximal
secretion capacity of retinol, beta-carotene and alpha-tocopherol into cows'
milk.” J Dairy Res 66(4): 511-22.
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